Camino bore: being a pilgrim; being alive.

High jinks at Schev: No, it isn't me, and I don't want to do it either

Saturday 12th June 2010. Scheveningen.
At this point last year, we were feeling very much that the camino was almost over; we were 373 miles from home, a shorter distance than we'd walked from Roncesvalles to Santiago. We'd bought our 'Jacobs schall' (scallop) on the pier and taken photos of sandcastles and kitesurfers and all the jolly things happening at a normal Dutch seaside town. Perhaps there was even a feeling of the imminent cutting of an umbilical cord.

In 2011 an email from some travel firm came to me offering 'easy days on the camino', a trip described thus, and showing a pic of someone with a limp i.e. almost empty rucksack:

"French Way - Section Easy days 100km - 11 Days/ 10 Nights - 111 km - From €816 -
From Sarria to Santiago de Compostela

Our "Easy Days" trip makes it possible to absolutely everybody to experience the Way of St James / Camino de Santiago and reach the world-known Santiago de Compostela. On an  "Easy Days" trip, walking days are shortened to an average of 2hours/10 kilometres. You can also decide how to organise your day, starting at the time you like with no pressure about starting too early. The daily walk will fill a half day, leaving the other half free. With this walking holiday, you will have a chance to walk the last 50 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela and still experience the feeling of being a pilgrim of modern times.


Everyday, during the walk, you are guaranteed a high level of comfort and gastronomy. The Camino is clearly marked with the “Scallop Shell” showing you the way. We have split the stages to short distances, so daily walks are of 9 kilometres on average, which means there are accessible to absolutely everybody."

I've highlighted the bits in bold to illustrate where D and I are likely to harrumph. I'm all in favour of people with difficulties finding it possible to complete the camino. What sticks in the craw (oh I love that phrase) is that there are perfectly able-bodied people who set off with the intention of finding ways to make it as easy for themselves as possible. Perhaps 'twas ever thus. Sigh. Is 'experiencing the feeling of being a pilgrim' the same thing as to be a pilgrim? (Full marks to the travel company anyway for respecting the difference.)

A witty friend writes in response:


"He who would valiant be, come join the party; 

our way is slow and free, let's all be hearty; 

there's no impediment, the brochure's eloquent, 

just pay the travellers' fee, and be a pilgrim."

I miss it

Today in 2011, we have arrived at Pentecost. For reasons... reasons, we did not have the incense I expected at church today, and I was rather disappointed. Holy fire! I'd never describe myself as a 'spiritual' person, but  I am 'religious', as I find religious ceremonies and practices rather useful. I like the things I can see and smell and touch. I like to think of my prayers rising like incense, and incense rising like I hope my prayers do. The returned pilgrim likes to be reminded of Santiago too and of the idea of 'perfuming the world with our deeds'. It seems sad that it is OK to be noisy about finding incense offensive, when there are some of us who find its omission at least disappointing. 

Other things went wrong today, like trying to pick up friends from the station... but I went to the wrong station and so missed my post-windsurfing bathtime and evening prayer. I felt overwhelmed by my own medicority, and made a mental list of the many things I can do but poorly.

Windsurfing wasn't too brill, the wind was poor, and it rained... but I found that I didn't really mind the wet (how could I?) and the other windsurfer on the lake today described at length the progress he'd made since starting windsurfing just 18 months ago, then said that the rain lashing on his face 'made him feel alive'. There were many mornings on the camino like this; it'll do for me. Thankyou for your thought, fellow-pilgrim.